kateandjohnsail.boats

Forget about muscling up killer inclines in the Alps; my kind of bike ride includes a gently graded path and a cannolo.

This morning in Syracuse, Sicily, we had a little business to do before riding, as my rear brake cable was failing and I do rely on that one a lot. We found our way to a bike rental store tended by Giuseppe, who had dispatched his morning’s customers and was experiencing a midday lull. Giuseppe’s English was limited, but his charm and enthusiasm were not, and when he determined what I needed, he broke out his winning smile and instructed us to go to a bar (café) nearby and relax, relaaax–in 30 minutes the bike would be ready! Not a beginner, I had him quote his price and it was perfetto, so we followed his instructions, relaxed at a bar with a cannolo, retrieved the bike, and were on our way.

Making our way out of town, we found what was apparently a retired trolley path; it was wide and smooth, lined with disused power poles. And it was gorgeous: on our right a volcanic cliff fell away and below that, the sea sparkled turquoise, with stacks and arches. We were surrounded by a curious combination of wildflowers and cacti. The gentle grade was achieved at times by cuts in the hillside; the resulting walls beside the trail were cool and garden-like. We rode for many kilometers before taking a stroll to the cliff’s edge and feasting our senses. We could have made it a loop route by turning inland for the return, but not this time; heading back the same way just meant seeing the same views from a new angle.  

As our ride came to an end, we headed for the bike shop and arranged for John’s bike to remain there until morning, so our new friend Giuseppe could set him up with brake pads.